Powerful, rich and complex, with a refined mix of currant, dark cherry and plum tart flavors backed by suave, medium-grained tannins. Well-defined slate and loamy notes stretch out nicely on the finish, with black olive hints. Drink now through 2027. – KM

The three palms at this vineyard line the valley floor at a seam of rocks between St. Helena and Calistoga. That rocky soil has proven to be a great medium for the roots of merlot vines, allowing them to ripen cool fruit in the midst of a hot place. This 2017 is luscious, layering high tones of strawberries with darker depths of black cherries and herbs. Its richness would be delicious with rare filet mignon.