Blueberry, blackberry and meaty garrigue define this deliciously lush and complex wine, the grape a tragic rarity in the appellation. Thick concentration is lifted by a bright underbelly of fresh, persistent acidity that boosts and complements the more brooding, brawny soul. - VIRGINIE BOONE

There are three Syrahs from Smith. His 2017 Syrah Wild Mountainside comes from a handful of sites in the Russian River and spent 15 months in a mix of one-third new French oak, 20% amphora, and the balance in used barrels. This rocking effort offers classic cool-climate notes of blue fruits, violets, ground pepper, and game. With medium to full body, beautiful tannins, and a seamless texture, it’s going to keep for over a decade.