Tasted young, the Fèlsina 2017 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Colonia shows a darker color of fruit (compared to the lither and more delicate 2016 vintage that I tasted at the same time). Sangiovese grapes were naturally concentrated by the heat and dryness of the vintage, and the oak signature is more prominent here (the wine sees 24 months in barrique). I'd definitely suggest putting this wine aside in your cellar to allow for better integration. I kept my open bottle at 55 degrees Fahrenheit and tasted it again two days later. The wine opened beautifully to show rich and profound fruit with some of those earthy and dusty limestone aromas that are so specific to this labor-intensive farming site on a remote hilltop. The score you see here was adjusted higher after that second tasting. A mere 6,000 bottles were made. - ML

The 2017 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Colonia is fabulous. Bright and translucent in the glass, the Colonia embodies everything that makes the Fèlsina wines so special. It is at once both powerful and elegant, extroverted and quiet and yet so full of character. The Colonia delivers a whole range of Sangiovese aromas and flavors with tremendous intensity and grace. Sweet red cherry, rose petal, cedar, tobacco and earthy notes all grace this exquisite, wonderfully expressive edition of Fèlsina's Gran Selezione. -- Antonio Galloni

There is a smoky element overlaying the macerated cherry and plum notes in this broad, solidly structured red. There is a feeling of fluidity, but also intensity and a sense that this is holding back. Well-proportioned and long, with an aftertaste of tobacco and mineral. Best from 2022 through 2040. – BS