The Fèlsina 2017 Fontalloro pours out of the bottle with a bang. This pure expression of Sangiovese is luscious and dark with thick layers of dark fruit, plum, cherry, leather and tilled earth. This hot-vintage edition shows good depth and intensity with lots of that black-fruit energy and extra concentration that is typical of this growing season. However, you can always count on Fontalloro to show balance, and that's exactly what you get here despite the adversity of the scorching summer season. That Sangiovese acidity remains intact and crisp. Production is 30,000 bottles. - ML

Fontalloro is exquisite in 2017. It is also such a contrast to the Rancia, as the two wines could not possibly be more different. Fontalloro is bright and vibrant, with more sweet red Sangiovese character than the darker Rancia. It is also incredibly delicious now, even though it clearly has the energy to age for many years. The 2017 is one of the finest Fontalloros I can remember tasting. -- Antonio Galloni

The flavors of cherry, strawberry and rose are pure, with a backbone of acidity and dense tannins for support. Iron and wild herb accents add depth as this red lingers, showing smoke and spice notes. Features a sense of urgency, driven by vivid acidity. The finish evokes energy. Best from 2022 through 2038. — B.S.