Intensely aromatic, this wine brings concentrated flavors of peach syrup, apricot jam and candied pineapple. Lush and tongue-coating, the sweetness (250 g/L residual sugar) is adequately offset with acidity, and as it rolls down the throat brings added layers of maple syrup, butterscotch and butter brickle. PAUL GREGUTT

The 2017 Vidal Icewine comes in with 255 grams of residual sugar, 9.79 of total acidity and a pH of 3.55. Unctuous and rather syrupy, this is a sugar rush from the first moment. The flavors and aromatics, though, are classic. The wine itself is delicious. It is fun to just smell. This is super, a hedonistic and sexy wine with a big, flavorful finish. The juicy finish dribbles sugar and fruit all over the palate. The next day, this seemed to be in better balance and fresher but also a touch thinner. It is nuanced with some tasty pineapples. This lacks the density of the Gold Vidal this issue, but it is spicier and livelier. - MS

Brighter and tangier in flavor than the barrel-fermented Gold version, this is vibrant with pineapple, orange and candied ginger flavors. It’s very sweet but finely balanced, with a limey acidity that makes it surprisingly easy to drink.

Intense yet lively, with apple pie, almond, vanilla and butter flavors permeating the creamy texture, balanced by vivid acidity that drives the extended finish. Drink now through 2028. 2,100 cases made, 550 cases imported. — BS