Pale lemon colour. The nose requires some teasing out, slightly heavier fruit. Yellow fruit on the palate, certainly quite concentrated, but not quite the same fresh energy as the others. But the intensity is really there. Ample rather than strict this year, though I am not sure if I have understood the wine. Tasted: October 2018.

The 2017 Puligny-Montrachet La Truffière 1er Cru sports a vibrant nose of Granny Smith apples, freshly sliced Conference pears and a touch of citrus lemon, tight at first but opening with aeration. The palate is a little richer on the entry than its peers, revealing hints of tropical fruit (guava and passion fruit), although the acidity keeps any exotic inclinations in check. Possibly a later-picked example. One of the earlier drinking Puligny-Montrachet wines in 2017. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting in Savigny-lès-Beaune. -- Neal Martin