Owned by the Tesseron family, this wine is smoky, ripe and full of tannins as well as blackberry fruit. Density gives it potential, and this wine from an estate that is performing well should be ready from 2024. - ROGER VOSS

This is a lovely St-Estèphe this year, firm and bright with bristling fruit right out of the gate - hugely unusual to see that this year. This is one of my favourites, and is totally charming with its cassis and damson fruit, but it's the juice and friendly tension that sets it apart. Silky and enjoyable. Buy. Read more at https://www.decanter.com/wine-reviews/france/bordeaux/chateau-lafon-rochet-st-estephe-4eme-cru-classe-2017-20506#RERQEIHQH23VqIRy.99

The 2017 Lafon-Rochet has a well-defined bouquet with red berry fruit, bay leaf, clove and a touch of sous-bois. Moderate intensity. The palate is well-defined with supple tannins, harmonious and smooth with fine depth. Lightly spiced with white pepper and sage towards the finish. The 2017 is very elegant. I think this has developed a little more substance since I last tasted it. Tasted at the Lafon-Rochet vertical at the property. -- Neal Martin

Fresh red currant and black cherry fruit mingles nicely with lilac and tobacco notes. Judicious toast provides the frame, while the finish features a solid tug of iron. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2021 through 2029. — JM