All of Louis Moreau's Valmur vines face south, so this wine can be quite rich. For the first time in 2017 it was unwooded, which has added more zip and life to the waxy, fresh and leesy palate, with stone fruit sweetness and a tangy finish.

A funky, earthy tinge on the nose of this wine also references fresh chalkiness and something lactic. The palate wipes any funkiness away with spankingly fresh, ripe and juicy stone fruit that is pervaded by zesty citrus. An attractive texture already reveals chalkiness and a core of mouthwatering pithiness. Lovely now (but decant), the wine will show more of its stony depth with bottle age. Drink now–2035. ANNE KREBIEHL MW