There are Echezeaux wines that are light and ethereal. This is not one of them. Mounir and Rotem Saouma offer a deep, dark, mysterious grand cru. What complications of gaminess and smoke the wine presents at first resolve to complexities by the second day the bottle is open, its detail just beginning to unfold. The wine’s depth of fruit expands on its satin texture, still lovely, rich and intoxicating five days out. If Lucien Le Moine’s premier cru wines often rise to grand-cru stature, what is left to say about the stature of this grand cru?