The 2017 Riesling Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Auslese *** (Green Capsule) opens with an oaky, pretty Burgundian aroma, leading to a deep, pure, concentrated, wonderfully aromatic and elegant bouquet of subtle crunchy slate scents, great intensity and mineral freshness. This has a mind-blowing nose, and it gains more lime zest and lemon confit aromas as it takes more air. The palate is silky, lush and enormously piquant, with firm tannins and highly stimulating citrus concentration. This is a very rich, round, generous and beautifully concentrated Auslese with an endlessly juicy, salty-piquant, tensioned and crunchy finish. A sleeping giant, this three-starred Zeltinger Sonnenuhr is richer and sweeter than the glorious Graacher Himmelreich. For my taste, it needs at least 10 years in the cellar, but for many readers, this will already be perfect to drink today. Tasted four times in March and April 2019. - SR