The 2017 Rosso San Valentino is an exotic beauty, mixing hints of blood orange with wild berries and balsam herbs. It washes across the palate with silky textures and polished red and black fruits that leave a staining of minerals, all nicely balanced by a twang of zesty citrus. It finishes lightly structured and incredibly long; a hint of primary concentration creates a cheek-puckering sensation. I would never guess this was the product of such a warm and dry vintage. The 2017 is a spectacular San Valentino. It is a blend of 70% Sangiovese, 15% Montepulciano and 15% Sagrantino. -- Eric Guido

My tasting of the red wines starts with the Paolo Bea 2017 Sanvalentino. This is a blend of 70% Sangiovese, 15% Montepulciano and 15% Sagrantino fermented with ambient yeasts and on the skins for 46 days before going into steel tank for eight months and eventually into oak casks for 40 months. This wine actually started off as a Montefalco Rosso, but it was failed by the appellation tasting commission in 2006. Giampiero Bea decided to remove it from the denomination altogether and named the wine after one of Umbria's most celebrated religious figures, Saint Valentine. This hot-vintage expression reveals dark fruit, spiciness from the grape skins and earthy aromas. It is a full-bodied red with lots of Umbrian oomph and power (with a contained 14% alcohol content). - Monica Larner