Lots of floral aromas, such as lilacs and roses, with crushed raspberries and strawberries. Sandalwood, too. Full-bodied and very powerful with incredible depth of fruit and chewy tannins. It goes on for minutes. Try after 2026.

Though well-marked by new oak, there's a vibrant quality to this Barolo, along with cherry, raspberry, iron, tar and tobacco flavors. Supple, almost elegant, with a long, spicy aftertaste, this shows plenty of detail and energy. Best from 2025 through 2040. — B.S.

Opening to a dark color and robust consistency, the Poderi Aldo Conterno 2017 Barolo Bussia Romirasco is perhaps the most powerful of the four new releases reviewed here. Wearing broad shoulders and sporting a heavy gait over the palate, the wine sees a solid construction of dark berry and spicy or toasted oak aromas. There is a lot to behold in this bottle, and it definitely shows the potential to soften and relax with more cellar aging. However, you definitely need to put the bottle aside for many years.

The 2017 Barolo Romirasco is a very pretty and satisfying Barolo. Bright red-toned fruit, mint, blood orange, cinnamon and rose petal give this mid-weight Barolo a good deal of freshness. Deceptive in its mid-weight feel, the Romirasco has plenty of depth. But it is the balance here that is most notable. This is a fine showing, -- Antonio Galloni