A solid, powerful style, this expressive red is well-marked by new oak, with plum, cherry, cigar box, menthol and sun-kissed hay flavors. Balanced and lively, with refined tannins and a long, spice-infused finish. Best from 2025 through 2042. — B.S.

The 2017 Barolo Cicala is a powerful, deep wine. Black cherry, menthol, tobacco, scorched earth, chocolate and searing tannins are some of the signatures. The Cicala has plenty of depth, but my instincts say it will mature before the tannins soften. I would prefer to drink this over the next decade, but readers need to expect that the balance is not ideal. -- Antonio Galloni

The Poderi Aldo Conterno 2017 Barolo Bussia Cicala reveals a deep garnet color with some dark copper. Like the other 2017 wines from this celebrated producer, I can't help but suspect that these areas of Bussia suffered from the heat and some of the other weather challenges associated with this growing season. A clear note of overt ripeness comes across as dried strawberry or sweet crème de cassis. The finish is similarly weighed down by the fruit weight and oak tannins.- ML