Made with certified-organic fruit, the 2017 Brunello di Montalcino is an impossibly graceful wine from a challenging vintage. This bottle defies the odds—and the dry heat of the growing season—to reveal soft layers of cherry, cassis and more vibrant fruit. It glides clear over the palate with silky momentum, and you only notice the tannins at the very end. Even those should soften and integrate as this collectible wine continues it bottle evolution. Production is 19,000 bottles.- ML

This is one of those wines that you feel compelled to drink, not just taste. The nose entices with scents of red cherry, vine-ripened tomato and a hint of blood orange. The texture is smooth and harmonious, with no sharp edges but plenty of verve. Subtle spice notes are perfectly integrated, energizing the vivid fruit flavors and coaxing you to take another sip. Beautifully refined and balanced, it is hard to resist now, yet will give pleasure over many years to come.

A captivating mix of ripe plums, strawberries, cloves, violet pastille, balsam herbs and white smoke emanates from the 2017 Brunello di Montalcino. This is undeniably elegant in feel, showing a weight unexpected from a young Poggio di Sotto, yet working in perfect harmony, with tart cherries and wild berries drenching the palate in primary concentration, as saline-minerals and brisk acids add energy and verve. There’s simply so much going on here that each return to the glass reveals something new. The tannins are sweet and rounded, and while structured, this remains fully satiating and fresh, as hints of lavender and black currant slowly fade. It’s totally atypical of a young Poggio di Sotto, yet also a wonderfully unique expression of the vintage, one that should mature evenly in spite of the drastic climatic conditions. In order to create the best wine possible, severe selection reduced production by 40%, and there will be no Riserva from 2017, as all of that juice was added to the Brunello. What’s more, winemaker Luca Marrone chose to shorten the aging in wood by an entire year. It may not be classic in style, but the 2017 is a wine that’s not to be missed. -- Eric Guido

Poggio di Sotto made 50% less wine in 2017 and will not release a Riserva. Maceration times were shorter than usual – just 25 to 30 days for the Brunello. It also spent three rather than four years in wood to avoid over-concentration. Aromas of steeped red berry infused with dried thyme and scorched orange peel make a heady first impression. The palate is mouth-filling and shows lovely purity of cherry and raspberry at the core. Concentrated in acidity with finely powdered, finessed tannins, this reveals just a hint of astringency on the orange liqueur and amaro finish.

Cherries and orange peel with cedar and pine undertones. It’s full yet fresh and lightly chewy with some citrus at the end. Shows tension and firmness for the vintage with a pretty form and purity. From organically grown grapes. Better after 2022.

Bright flavors of strawberry, cherry and currant are at the core of this elegant red, which is balanced and long, with a fresh aftertaste evoking fruit and mineral hints. Firm, yet refined tannins should give this structure to evolve over the next decade and more. Best from 2024 through 2042. — B.S.

Aromas of eucalyptus oil, oak-driven spice, coconut and forest floor take shape in the glass. The medium-bodied but rather concentrated palate offers crushed raspberry, sour cherry and licorice alongside fine-grained tannins before a coffee bean close. It's already almost accessible, so don't leave this in the cellar for too long. Drink 2024–2029. KERIN O’KEEFE