The 2017 Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano is darkly concentrated and among the richest wines in this series of single-vineyard Riservas. Montestefano is angular, textured and bold with dark fruit aromas, dried blackberry, toasted almond and cured tobacco. With this vintage, you get an age-worthy wine that offers brawn and power for drinking in the medium term, but it will become increasingly silky and slender with time. Dusty tannins and crushed stone appear on the long finish. - Monica Larner

New leather, camphor, cedar and dark spice aromas form the subtle but compelling nose. On the firmly structured palate, tightly knit, noble tannins support fleshy Morello cherry, crushed raspberry star anise and baking spice. Drink through 2029. KERIN O’KEEFE

(93+ points) The 2017 Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano is a potent, savory wine. Today, the fruit is very much in the background. A brooding, backward Barbaresco, the Montestefano clearly needs time, it is a somber, imposing Barbaresco. Dark plum, earthiness, cloves, menthol and licorice infuse the finish with notable gravitas. There's plenty of Montestefano breadth and resonance. By Antonio Galloni on September 2021

Dense and rich, if on the austere side now, courtesy of burly tannins, with black cherry, plum, tar and mineral serving as the main flavor themes. Reveals terrific energy and length, with a chalky feel on the finish. Best from 2027 through 2045. — B.S.