Mountain hay, cedar, new leather and pipe tobacco aromas take center stage. Full-bodied and concentrated, the savory palate offers fleshy black cherry, licorice and botanical herb set against a backbone of close-grained tannins. A minty note lingers on the close. Drink through 2029. KERIN O’KEEFE

Presents a bright, pure expression of cherry, strawberry, rose and grassy aromas and flavors underscored by a vein of minerality, with tannins that flex their muscles on the long finish. Intense but balanced, with tension that bodes well for future evolution. Best from 2026 through 2043. — B.S.

The 2017 Barbaresco Riserva Muncagota plays some of its best cards in terms of texture, offering silky tannins, firmness and a long-lasting veil of fruit flavors. Cassis, wild cherry, camphor ash, spice and iron ore are aromatic protagonists. This wine is lean and compact but very linear and focused. Like the other Riservas in this group of new releases, the wine is fermented in steel and aged in large oak casks for 32 months. - Monica Larner

The 2017 Barbaresco Riserva Muncagota is one of the lighter wines in this range. Floral and medium in body, the 2017 gives the impression of a wine that will open earlier than some of the others. It, too, has pretty imposing tannins though, so a few years in bottle are advisable. Crushed flowers, sweet red cherry, mint and white pepper linger. -- Antonio Galloni