Power and concentration from the first nose, underbrush and spice box notes show traces of the drought of the 2017 summer, turning into liquorice, bitter black chocolate, sweet fig and tight-berried fruit as it opens. Flavourful and compact, with subtle hints of thyme and sage, lacks some freshness but this is a well structured enjoyable bottle. From a beautiful, one-block vineyard in Rutherford, with vines on terraces planted around a lake. 76% new oak. Blend completed with 1% Petit Verdot. Tasted twice.

Quintessa's 2017 Proprietary Red Wine is a more muscular, pungent expression of this special bit of Rutherford dirt. Scents of camphor and earth accent cassis on the nose, while the mouthfeel is full-bodied and sturdy, with ample tannins and hints of mocha on the finish. A blend of 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Merlot, 3% Carmenère and 1% Petit Verdot aged in 76% new French oak, it's quite different in style from most other vintages. - Joe Czerwinski

Solid, featuring blackberry and black currant notes, carried by a well-integrated brambly structure, ending with a lively licorice snap accent. Reveals a dark earth component at the end, while the fruit powers through easily. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Carmenère. Best from 2021 through 2032. 9,000 cases made. — JM