Another wine in the running for the wine of the vintage is the 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard CCS, which, as always, is all Cabernet aged in new Darnajou barrels. This full-bodied, magical 2017 has incredibly polished, silky tannins as well as a mammoth-sized texture and mouthfeel. Loaded with notions of blueberries, white flowers, graphite, candied violets, and incense, it’s one of those wines that carries incredible richness and depth yet never seems heavy or cumbersome. The 2017 doesn’t get much better, and this beauty can be drunk today or cellared for two decades.

Shows the juicy, forward fruit of the vintage, featuring engaging plum, blackberry and raspberry notes and a zip of roasted apple wood on the finish. Reveals solid underlying grip, with a bold graphite accent emerging steadily as this airs in the glass. Exhibits great latent vibrancy. Best from 2022 through 2040. — J.M.

Schrader’s CCS comes from Beckstoffer’s To Kalon vineyard in Oakville, produced from clone 4 grown on the C1 block. One hundred percent Cabernet Sauvignon, it was aged in 100% new Darnajou oak barrels for 20 months. Very deep purple-black colored, the 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon CCS Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard is little youthfully mute to begin, slowly unfurling to reveal boysenberries, wild blueberries and plum preserves scents with a savory undercurrent of bouquet garni, charcuterie and black olives plus wafts of black truffles and underbrush. Medium to full-bodied, the palate is laden with earth-laced black fruits, finishing with plenty of chew and loads of savory layers. - Lisa Perrotti-Brown