In the top handful of wines in the vintage, the 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard T6 is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon (which was harvested the morning of the fires) that spent 20 months in 92% new French oak. This is a powerhouse of a wine that’s loaded with fruit and richness, yet it still just glides across the palate with no sensation of weight or heaviness. Dense purple-hued, with lots of chocolaty black and blue fruits, incense, and spice as well as unsmoked tobacco, give bottles 3-4 years of bottle age and enjoy over the following two decades.

Ripe and succulent, featuring silky-edged plum, açaí and raspberry puree flavors, lined with licorice and fruitcake notes. Offers a gorgeously plush feel through the finish, with the fruit soaking up the toast. A late tug of graphite completes the picture. Drink now through 2039. — J.M.

Classic To Kalon aromas of plums, berries and terracotta, turning to dust and hot stone. A full-bodied red, yet tight and focused with medium-chewy tannins and a flavorful finish. Give it two or three years to come together more. Try after 2022.

Schrader’s T6 comes from Beckstoffer’s To Kalon vineyard in Oakville, produced from clone 6 grown on the D2 block. It is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon and was aged in 100% new oak for 20 months. Very deep purple-black colored, the 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon T6 Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard sashays out of the glass with opulent notes of fruitcake, Chinese five spice and oolong tea over a core of blackcurrant cordial, chocolate box and Morello cherries. Medium to full-bodied, the palate has well-played, grainy tannins and lovely freshness, giving a boost to all of the decadently spicy blackberry preserves flavors, finishing on a stewed tea note. - Lisa Perrotti-Brown