The barrel-fermented 2017 Ried Zieregg Morillon is intense and bright on the lemony-scented and salty limestone nose. Full-bodied, intense, lush and concentrated, with fine tannins and more oaky flavors than its exciting sister from the Grassnitzberg, this is a full and ample Zieregg Chardonnay with lots of mineral tension and grip on the finish. Still very young but highly promising. Tasted in May 2019. - SR

The most subtle smoke on the nose mixes with the purest sense of ripe Amalfi lemon peel. The palate is rounded and generous with creamy apricot hints. A fine, chalky structure provides backbone, and texture prevails; in between, more of that gorgeous, creamy Amalfi lemon brightness shines through. A most lovely, elegant wine with real harmony and lots of mileage. Drink now–2035. ANNE KREBIEHL MW