Aromas of white currants, pear, dried white flowers and wheat toast introduce the 2017 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Referts, a medium to full-bodied, satiny and enveloping wine underpinned by racy acids, concluding with promising back-end grip. Germain tells me that this cuvée is purchased as must and comes from 60-year-old vines that are farmed according to "lutte raisonnée."- WK

(90-92 points) (these vines are between 50 and 60 years old): Bright medium yellow. Sexy leesy nuances to the aromas of ripe peach, apricot and spices, plus a hint of dried fruits. At once silky and firm on entry; can't match the Meursault premier crus for richness or depth but sound acidity gives this wine good citrus bite. A tight, energetic midweight in a drier style, in need of a longer élevage. Quite firm on the finish. These vines were not picked especially early, according to Morin. -- Stephen Tanzer