A complex and aristocratic nose, with freshly cut lime, lemon peel, and a herbal echo: thyme, mint, the gentlest dried tarragon. The acidity jumps out of the glass, a cross between a promise and a threat. On the palate, it has all the hallmarks of a fine wine. A texture that starts like a silk foulard around the tongue, until the acidity kicks in and the silk turns into Amalfi lemons. The aftertaste packs perhaps too alcoholic a punch, the only false step in a precision act. A wine that leads Santorini into the 2020s

The 2018 Cuvee Monsignori Santorini is all Assyrtiko, unoaked, dry (1.8 grams of residual sugar and 7.02 of total acidity) and comes in at 14% alcohol. This is sourced from vines at least 200 years old, says the winery. As I've mentioned in the past, Argyros has access to very old vines. This is lovely and probably a small step up on the 2017, also reviewed this issue, but reasonable minds might differ. I loved the freshness on the 2017, but this adds a hint of richness while still having plenty of that freshness. It remains lively and focused, with a big finish. It has finesse and elegance to spare. True, it might just be the impression of more exuberant fruit, since this is younger, but I'd give this the very slight nod for now. Like its older brother, it might age rather well. - MS