Forty-five year old vines that act like they are 80 years' old' is how Brian Sieve describes the vineyard that supplies the fruit for this pale, aromatic, low-yielding wine. With lots of clove and pepper spice from 100% whole bunches, this is savoury, complex and refined with lovely wild strawberry sweetness.

(91-93 points) The 2018 Volnay Les Mitans 1er Cru is 100% whole cluster and underwent one of the earliest malolactics, finishing by January 2019. It has a mixture of red and black fruit tinged with brown spices. The palate is medium-bodied with crunchy red fruit, the whole cluster so well integrated that you would guess it contained far less. The elegant finish is tinged with bay leaf and white pepper notes. Excellent. -- Neal Martin

This is also notably ripe, yet it still manages to remain relatively elegant and pretty with a spicy kirsch-like combination of red cherry and dark raspberry. The sleek and natural refinement of Mitans is present on the delicious and lightly stony flavors that culminate in a dusty, moderately austere and sneaky long finish. This lovely effort is more structured than it usually is and will need at least some patience.

(90 - 92 points) Vinified entirely with whole clusters, the 2018 Volnay 1er Cru Les Mitans mingles aromas of peonies and orange rind with sweet berry fruit, followed by a medium to full-bodied, supple and velvety palate, with powdery structuring tannins and an aromatic finish.- WK