The nose on this wine conveys both dried and fresh lemon peel, some smoky reduction and wet chalk. On the palate, cool concentration homes in on a ripe but tingling notion of lemon zest. Earthiness anchors this all along with lemon notes that offer vivid freshness. Stony, chalky lemony purity seems to radiate and real energy propels this powerful wine forward. The finish is bone dry and long. Drink 2025–2050. ANNE KREBIEHL MW

A very succulent gewurz with tons of yellow fruit, as well as rose aromas, then some spice joins the picture as it aerates in the glass. At once very creamy, frankly off-dry yet very fresh on the palate, this is delightful now. Drink now, either by itself or with mature cheese. From biodynamically grown grapes.

The 2018 Gewurztraminer Roche Calcaire is a beautiful wine made from the estate’s young vines across multiple vineyards planted on limestone. Rich and expansive on the palate, with striking translucence, the 2018 is so expressive today. Even with all of its obvious depth, the 2018 remains light on its feel. Lemon confit, chamomile, tangerine oil and white flowers add striking raciness. The Roche Calcaire Gewurztraminer is one of the highlights in the range of 2018s. Its 40 grams per liter of residual sugar are very nicely balanced. -- Antonio Galloni