Grown on grey clay slate soils on a steep southeast-facing site, this has a fresh nose of green apple. In the mouth it has evident sweetness (55g/l as it turns out - levels in 2018 were higher than usual), with more of that fresh apple but this time fleshed out with some richer honey and a hint of stone fruit. Despite this, it retains great balance thanks to its very present acidity. Barrel sample.

The 2018 Oberhäuser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett is darker toned and ripe on the flinty nose, with its crushed stone aromas. Richer and more intense on the palate, this is an almost creamy-textured and persistently salty Leistenberg that is quite rich but still playful and stimulating. It's just more generous and solemn on the palate. Perhaps more a Spätlese style but very stimulating in fact. Tasted in July 2019. This is riper and more powerful than the 2017. - Stephan Reinhardt

The relatively cool Leistenberg is ideally suited to a wine of brightness and levity even in a growing season as precocious and warm as that of 2018. Lime, pear and apple deliver stimulating aromatic penetration as well as zest and crunch on a polished, downright delicate palate. The penetrating, animating, ultra-refreshing finish is strikingly transparent to underlying wet stone. -- David Schildknecht