Céline Fontaine sources her excellent Bâtard from four parcels on the Chassagne-Montrachet side of the Grand Cru, totalling 0.4ha. This is an effortlessly complex Chardonnay, combining depth and texture with scented oak, taut acidity and the power and concentration to age. The one-third new oak is beautifully integrated here.

Blockier and denser than the Criots, the 2018 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru unfurls in the glass with scents of honeycomb, orange oil, white flowers and toasted nuts. Full-bodied, fleshy and textural, it's lively and long, its rich core of fruit underpinned by ripe acids. Broad-shouldered and expressive, this will drink well sooner than the tighter-knit 2017.- WK

The 2018 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru has a more expressive bouquet than the Criots at the moment, displaying greater mineralité and terroir expression. The palate is very well balanced with good acidity, and perhaps a little more cohesive than the Criots. A saline finish gets the saliva flowing. Excellent. -- Neal Martin

This is at once both fresher and more elegant with its floral suffused aromas of spiced pear, apple, spice and admirably discreet wood. There is good vibrancy if only average density to the sleek, refined and reasonably well-detailed medium weight flavors that display outstanding length on the very dry finale. This needs to develop better depth to achieve my rating but given the lovely balance and tightly wound finish, it has the potential to do so.