A striking wine that has such intensity, length and complexity, yet somehow manages to deliver a very elegant, pure and focused style. Aromas of ripe stone fruit, white flowers, spice and freshly picked herbs lead to a palate that has a vivid stream of minerals, swathed in ripe peaches and mangoes and coursing through the finish. Impressive in every respect. Drink or hold.

A beautifully lifted note of kumquat and Mandarin orange sets an aromatic citrus focus on the nose. This is borne out immediately on the palate that seems to drip with zesty Mandarin orange and edgier tangerine. This tingles like pared citrus peel, emanating freshness and aroma around a central seam of freshness and utter concentration. There is an underlying compactness, something very solid, driven and totally alive at its very core. You have no choice but to submit to this citric drive. Wow. Drink 2025–2045. - ANNE KREBIEHL MW

The 2018 Ried Kellerberg Riesling Smaragd opens with an intensely fruity but coolish, piquant and spicy bouquet of crushed stones, potted ginger and other veggies. Very clear and precise. Lush and intense on the palate, with a remarkably vivacious acidity, this is a dense and concentrated, quite rich and fleshy but refined and very elegant as well as refreshing Kellerberg with good phenolic grip on the finish. Tasted at the domain in September 2019. - Stephan Reinhardt