A hint of apple freshness and crushed wild thyme savoriness play aromatically on the nose before riper notions of pear and Mirabelle plum hit. On the palate it is saltiness that prevails. A zesty, tingling core of yeasty salt, celery and white pepper sends its wonderfully sharp flavors through the generous fruit on the palate. This is mouthfilling, bold and big but also linear and precise. A picture of bundled, spicy power. Drink 2030–2045. - ANNE KREBIEHL MW

The nose here is awash with beguiling florals, ranging from honeysuckle to dried jasmine. Dried pineapple and dried papaya also take hold, together with hints of horseradish. Full-bodied and very oily with density and structure to the powerful phenolics and apricot character, yet there’s verticality to the steely acidity. Drink now or hold.

The 2018 Ried Kellerberg Grüner Veltliner Smaragd is coolish, fresh and deep on the flinty and stony as well herbal nose with its tobacco flavors. Complex as always. Full-bodied, rich and elegant on the palate, this is a structured, spicy-piquant, tannic and very mineral Veltliner with a long and complex, tightly woven and unique finish. This is a great, slowly developing Veltliner with remarkable elegance, finesse and mineral freshness. Quite powerful on the aftertaste. Bottled in August 2019 and tasted at the domain in September. - Stephan Reinhardt