94+ Jean-Michel Chartron’s fruit for his Corton-Charlemagne hails from the lieu à dit of En Charlemagne in the heart of the vineyard. His 2018 version is outstanding, offering up a superb bouquet of apple, pear, orange zest, a great base of chalky minerality, white flowers and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and again, rock solid at the core, with great cut and grip, and superb focus and length on the ripe and racy finish. Very, very impressive!

Mingling notes of citrus pith and orange blossom with hints of pastry cream, Chartron's 2018 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru is medium to full-bodied, elegantly muscular and structured, with lively acids, chalky extract and a pretty core of fruit.- WK

The core of apple and white peach is shaded by butterscotch and lemon candy in this stern white, which shows some flesh midpalate, before shutting down again on the chalky, tactile finish. Best from 2024 through 2035. 95 cases made, 7 cases imported. — BS