(90-92 points) This is also quite cool with its restrained, airy and more elegant nose that features notes of mineral reduction, oyster shell and white flowers. The racy and beautifully well-delineated middle weight flavors deliver excellent persistence on the clean, notably dry and bracing finale where a hint of bitter lemon appears.

(91-92 points) This has attractive peach and peach-kernel aromas with hints of flint and almond pastry. The palate has a very fleshy and succulent feel with apricot, mango and yellow-peach flavors. A steely-mineral spark below. Drink on release.

(90-92 points) Clear brisk fresh colour, the nose hidden at first but then some ripe yellow fruit emerges before returning to its marine mineral base with the lightest of reductive notes at the finish, which is typical of Montmains.

The 2018 Chablis Montmains 1er Cru shows a little more definition and terroir expression compared directly with the Montée de Tonnerre. Lemon peel, touches of crushed stone and dried flowers almost reluctantly emerge with aeration. The palate is powerful and expressive, with a honeyed texture. The acidity feels a little lower than previous vintages and you would almost think there was a touch of botrytized fruit on the finish. It’s a Montmains that I would broach in its youth. -- Neal Martin