Just kick off your shoes, lay back and wallow in the stunning caramelized-pineapple and banana aromas that pour from the glass. This super succulent but finely etched Auslese is so easy to enjoy now, but has great potential. Drink or hold.

The 2018 Graacher Himmelreich Auslese (Gold Capsule) is clear and reveals a delicate raisin aroma on the nose along with lemon chutney and herbal notes. Distinctive. Smooth and textured on the highly refined and refreshing mineral palate, this is a crystalline, seductively lush and balanced Auslese GK with the fine, crystalline grip of the Graacher terroir. 375-milliliter bottles. Tasted at the domain in September 2020.- SR

In contrast with this year’s “regular” Himmelreich Auslese, this gold capsule interpretation evokes the citricity that I associate with the site. Headily scented, glossy and lusciously rich, it is at the same time cooling and refreshing, evoking a lime and grapefruit sorbet infused with Chartreuse-like floral and herbal essences. At the same time, quince paste, marzipan and overripe honeydew melon, reinforced by prominent sweetness, weigh in on the confitured, confectionary and decadent side. The impressively persistent finish is soothingly sustained and pure, if not quite so multifaceted for now as that of the corresponding Zeltinger Sonnenuhr. -- David Schildknecht