What a glorious white with such length, complexity and character that changes all the time. Dried-apple, cream, pineapple and honey notes, as well as light tropical fruit and honeysuckle. It’s full-bodied and very tight and compact. The finish goes on for minutes with honey, flint, cream and apples. A dream. Of course, you are supposed to age this, but it’s so beautiful now.

At an enviable 2ha, the Marquis de Laguiche's holdings are the largest in the Grand Cru and have been put to good use by Véronique Drouhin and her team. This is a superb expression of one of Burgundy's greatest terroirs, with wonderful citrus and stone fruit aromas, some kitchen spices and patisserie, very fine 30% new wood and remarkable palate length. Drinking Window 2023 - 2032

(93-96 points) An overtly spicy nose possesses really lovely layering with its combination of white peach, lemon rind, jasmine tea, soft oak and pretty floral nuances. Once again there is a strikingly sophisticated texture to the dense and sleekly muscular broad-shouldered flavors that coat the palate with sappy dry extract while buffering the firm acid spine shaping the hugely long finale. As is often the case with the Drouhin Montrachet, this is a big but very classy wine that marries power with refinement.

The 2018 Montrachet Grand Cru has a lime-driven bouquet, touches of orange pith, not much in the way of mineralité, though it does develop an intriguing liquorice scent with aeration. The palate is well balanced with a smooth, honeyed entry, white chocolate infused citrus fruit. Vanillary at the moment with a seductive finish. Delicious...but where will it go? Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2018 white tasting. -- Neal Martin