Starderi faces southwest, with greater exposure to the moderating influence of the Tanaro River. There are more spiced aromas in the 2018 Barbaresco Starderi Versu, including aniseed, white pepper, dried cherry, and fresh leather. The palate is incredibly long and inviting, with black raspberry, baking spice, and tea leaf. Drink 2022-2045.

Another especially elegant expression from La Spinetta, the 2018 Barbaresco Starderi Vürsù demonstrates how well this winery worked in this slightly cooler growing season. All the wines across this portfolio appear bright and more ethereal, representing a subtle pivot for proprietor Giorgio Rivetti and his crew. Dried cassis, limestone and crushed flowers emerge from the bouquet, and the wine imparts a lasting and highly polished mouthfeel. Production is 14,500 bottles.- ML

The 2018 Barbaresco Vigneto Starderi is a powerful, structured wine. Readers will have to be patient with the 2018, as it is a mere infant. Dried cherry, mint, spice, rose petal, kirsch and sweet red cherry fill out the layers nicely as the Starderi shows off its characteristic volume. Give this a few years to soften. -- Antonio Galloni