There's a slight spritz to this at first, which blows off to reveal a relatively big version, superexpressive and balanced, showing exotic notes of shaved ginger and coriander, followed by a mix of candied pear, baked apple and dough flavors. This reaches a peak toward the end, when the acidity pierces through, bringing back the energy, while sea salt accents marks the finish. Drink now through 2031. 2,083 cases made, 200 cases imported. — AZ

The 2018 Les Vieux Clos has a deep golden color and displays an intense and concentrated, a bit brutish bouquet that is less brilliant and precise than the exciting 2019s. However, this might be a result of the cork, which unfortunately, is not the very best choice and looks a bit gray on the side that was in contact with the wine, something I have detected with great wonder several times. On the palate, the 2018 is enormously rich and concentrated, very elegant and round and reveals great power and intensity on the finish. This is a more monolithic Clos compared to the 2019 and the acidity is rather more gentle than dramatic. The wine shows lot of tannins, which are a bit astringent on the finish, and the fruit is somewhat cooked and less transparent. This is a textural Vieux Clos that needs a decanter, lots of air and a big, fat goose or duck as a partner. 15% alcohol. Tasted in May 2021. - SR