The extremely old vine Charmes-Chambertin from Domaine Roty is also a stunningly brilliant wine in this vintage and was singing every bit as well as the Mazy at the time of my visit. The bouquet is flat out gorgeous, delivering a constellation of cassis, sweet dark berries, smoked meats, woodsmoke, dark chocolate, a complex base of soil tones, hints of licorice and spicy new oak. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and bottomless at the core, with stunning balance and grip, suave, buried tannins and a very, very long, complex finish. Great, great juice.

From three little plots in Aux Charmes, with the oldest vines now around 140 years and the youngest from the 1960s. Rich, deep, almost opaque colour while the nose is really backward too. Ultra-intense with everything weighted to the back of the palate. A little blood orange shows in with the lush dark red fruit. A brilliant wine for the long term.

Aromas of ripe cherries and cassis mingled with notions of licorice, anise, sweet spices, dark chocolate and peonies introduce the 2019 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru Très Vieilles Vignes, a full-bodied, layered and concentrated wine that's rich and velvety, with a broad-shouldered, textural profile and a long, resonant finish. Framed by beautifully ripe, powdery tannins, it's an especially sensual rendition of this perennially great wine. -WK

(94-96 points) The 2019 Charmes-Chambertin Très Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru comes from 139-year-old vines. It has a slightly earthy bouquet of black fruit infused with sous-bois and black truffle. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, very focused and intense. Pain d’épice and sage notes develop toward the structured, grippy finish. Good density and assertiveness here. Those old vines are still delivering the goods after 14 decades! (Drink between 2026-2050) - NM

Here too soft wood sets off the moderately high-toned aromas of herbal tea and spice-inflected red and dark cherry, leather, game, plum, newly turned earth and underbrush nuances. There is superb density to the suave, round and caressing yet quite powerful broad-shouldered flavors that possess excellent size, weight and huge length. This too is excellent. (Drink starting 2036)