This self-confidently atypical pinot gris has astonishing acidity that’s got the intensity of a lightning strike. Tons of pineapple and toast character, but also gigantic, lemony freshness at the exceptionally bright finish. May be too extreme for some, but we find this amazing. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drink or hold.

Aromas of wood smoke and mild Alpine cheese on this wine are intense and likely to be divisive. Those who take the plunge will be rewarded with a zingy, refreshing sip redolent of Granny Smith apples. For a Pinot Gris from the region, this wine has big body, but it's kept in check by pulsing acidity. That smoky note returns on the finish, but now with a juicy, tangy punch. Layla Schlack