With its cornucopia of yellow fruit, floral notes and wet-stone character, this is at once fleshy and enormously structured. Nothing opulent or warm about it at all, though. In fact, the very long finish is decisively cool. You really need some time to take in this embarrassment of riches! From biodynamically grown grapes. Drink or hold.

A shy nose hints at honey and chamomile. In fact, this wine is honeyed in color, aroma and flavor, but think delicate and restrained. It's not syrupy or overly floral, just a pleasant reminder of sweeter times. There's a complexity there, with hints of fresh white mushroom and wet slate, if you go looking for them. The acidity, on the other hand, is straightforward and powerful, giving the wine a long, clean finish and making you thirsty for more. Layla Schlack