Delicate aromas recalling scorched earth and truffle mingle with mocha and botanical herbs on this 100% Sangiovese. Elegant and enveloping, the supple palate features fleshy plum, orange zest and baking spice before an espresso finish. Soft tannins offer supple support. Drink through 2024. KERIN O’KEEFE

This benchmark Panzano estate is still in the hands of long-time owner, Giovanni Manetti, but the new generation is very much in evidence: Manetti’s son Bernardo, daughter Margherita and nephew Costa now play fundamental roles as the estate continues to grow. Fontodi’s 2019 is striking and pronounced in fragrance. Liquorice and black cherry are offset by coffee, char and tobacco. Vigorous tannins yield slowly but surely as this makes its way across the palate. Its structure is well-proportioned with the ripe black fruit, substantial but never heavy or imposing, underscored by some tanginess. As always, it soars above its category.

(93+ points) The 2019 Chianti Classico is fresh, vibrant and so expressive. Aromatic and expansive, with terrific nuance, the 2019 is one of the most elegant Chianti Classicos I have tasted at Fontodi. Crushed flowers, red/purplish fruit, spice, lavender and pipe tobacco build into the delineated, vibrant finish. -- Antonio Galloni

This succulent red is hallmarked by very pure expressions of cherry, raspberry, violet and mineral. Firmly built, with energy and a persistence that extends the fruit, tobacco and mineral elements on the finish. Drink now through 2030. — B.S.

Offering a clear snapshot of the vintage, the 2019 Chianti Classico draws its organic fruit only from Panzano from estate vineyards and a few leased parcels in the Conca d'Oro. The bouquet opens to fresh cherry, bright rose and other floral nuances. The mineral signature in this wine is strong and serves to give focus and linearity. It offers good flavor intensity to the palate, with elegant tannins to finish. - Monica Larner