Firmly established as one of Chile's and indeed the southern hemisphere's top Sauvignon Blancs, this taut, grippy, saline white comes from volcanic soils on the edge of Lake Colbún and combines elderflower and pink grapefruit flavours with stony, bone-dry minerality. Stunning stuff. 2020-27.

94+ 2019 was a milder year than 2018, and the 2019 Cenizas de Laberinto Sauvignon Blanc is marginally more civilized than the 2018 I tasted next to it. It was kept with the lees in the fermentation vessel for some eight months. Even so, in this part of much cooler Maule, the differences between vintages tend to be more subtle, and 2019 is not a warm vintage, just less cold. Perhaps the wine is a little rounder, more citrusy than herbal and surprisingly has lower alcohol than the 2018 I tasted next to it. It has terrific balance on the palate, with acidity that still makes you salivate and is effervescent but perhaps not as sharp as colder years. It's a balanced vintage,, and the wine feels very complete and precise. 18,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in November 2019. He has moved from screwcap to natural cork in 2019, as he thinks it will result in higher complexity as the wine ages in bottle. Bravo! - LG