Pale with green glints and signature struck match, spicy coriander seed, curry powder and flint to nose and palate. Rapier-like acidity informs the precise delivery. Racy lime mingles with notes of lime blossom and zest, quinine, crushed oyster shell, talc and green tea. Exceptionally mineral. A consistently outstanding, terroir-driven Douro white from several old field blend parcels.

The 2019 Guru is a field blend from old vines (60 years), mostly Viosinho, Rabigato, Códega do Larinho and Gouveio, aged for seven months in 90% used French oak. It comes in at just 12.2% alcohol. It seems bigger in every way. In structure and a concentrated mouthfeel, this is exceptional. It grips the palate on the finish and doesn't let go. It has laser-like focus. There is some wood in the background, but as always, this handles the wood very well. This seems like an exceptional vintage for this, and it's designed to age well. You might be tempted to dive in now—it will be a great food wine even today—but I suspect this will be much more interesting in a couple of years.- MS

From a north-facing vineyard planted in 1960 to a field blend of local varieties, this wine needs a day or two of air to begin to show its sophisticated best: Earthy funk gives way to scents of crab broth and a flinty tension. Decant this for a seafood stew.

A vibrant acidity cuts through lemon, white peach and apple flavors in this elegant white flanked with herb, wet stone, white tea and a hint of toast. Very focused and full of energy. Rabigato, Viosinho, Gouveio and Côdega do Larinho. Drink now through 2026. 1,500 cases made, 150 cases imported. — GS