Notes of smoke, toast and dill introduce this broad-shouldered Chardonnay. Matured in 15% to 20% French oak, it has piercing lemon and tangerine flavors layered in smoky, savory oak accents but maintains a vitality and freshness throughout. The wine needs time to meld but should approach peak from 2024 and improve through 2035.

Light and airy, yet with no shortage of intensity or length, offering toast, iodine, oyster shell, lime blossom and citrus aromas and flavors that make this enticing. Drink now through 2025. 1,489 cases made, 250 cases imported. — BS

This is an important cuvée for Xavier Monnot. His 2.5ha holding comes from three sectors, clay at the foot of the slope, a hummock in the middle and plateau at the top – interestingly (to me at any rate) he stirs the lees of the wine from the top of the slope but not the bottom. The blend is a glowing lively primrose colour, a touch of sulphur again. As well as the weight there is a tighter mineral quality, definitely the salinity, great ageing potential, weight and austerity together. Very good tension at the finish. Thoroughly recommended.