(92-95 points) A slightly fresher nose combines notes of floral and spice with those of more prominent Chablis character and in particular oyster shell. The detailed and noticeably more intense middle weight flavors brim with minerality that carries over to the balanced, wonderfully long and bitter lemon-inflected finish. This is lovely and a Vaudésir of finesse and delicacy that should age gracefully for a decade or more.

From three plots, two facing north, the other south. This is always a warm valley, and winemaker Olivier Bailly thinks Vaudésir and Blanchot are very similar. 100% matured in vats, with just the end of ageing done in wood to add a hint of spice. Ripe, generous, creamy but has a very good line of acidity as well. Quite warm, enticing, with an intriguing finish.

From three parcels, the 2020 Chablis Vaudésir Grand Cru has an expressive bouquet with orchard fruit, orange blossom and light chalky aromas, showing more complexity than the Blanchots. The palate is well balanced with a taut line of acidity, nicely focused, quite saline in the mouth, but (again) it needs more substance and grip on the finish. -- Neal Martin