The new red blend 2020 Alma Contador is going to be sold mostly through the négociants from Bordeaux. It was produced with grapes from three vineyards in San Vicente de la Sonsierra at different altitudes and is a blend of Tempranillo with 8% Garnacha with limited yields because of mildew. It matured in new French barriques for 20 months. He wanted a more classical image and perhaps a more classical profile of wine. It's perfumed and floral, with notes of aromatic herbs, a little balsamic and quite showy, with very fine tannins and freshness, as he used more grapes from the higher-altitude zones. It's powerful and elegant, and in a way it reminds me of the style of the initial vintages of La Cueva de Contador; it's clean and elegant. It's 14.5% alcohol with a pH of 3.55. It's very young but still drinkable, as the quality of the tannins is very good. I think this is the one wine I'd buy from their portfolio if I could only buy one. It transported me to the wines from the early 2000s. 10,000 bottles produced.- LG

A new project of Contador that, according to Benjamin Romeo, took a Bordeaux approach of blending vineyards at three different altitudes. The blend is mainly tempranillo and some garnacha. Right after pouring, there is still some sweet plushness from the oak, but this peters out and turns to incense and sandalwood with time in the glass. Then come aromas of blueberry concentrate, balsamic purple fruit, hot stones, lavender and iodine. There’s a high level of ripeness and concentration on the palate, with purple and blue fruit that renders a brooding, almost pulpy feel. But the fresh acidity keeps it going, delivering a nice contrast to the weight and extraction. Long, dense and tight, but silky, too. Embryonic at this stage, but shows potential. Just slightly potent at the end. Will be released in 2023. Drink from 2025.

Deep ruby in colour, and a punchy aromatic kick on the first nose, plenty of Rioja signature. Blueberry and black cherry fruit, spiced vanilla oak grilled and burnished, liqourice root, cocoa bean and balsamic. The first vintage of new bottling Alma, from 5.5ha of vines across three plots up to 70 years old, released this month. Benjamin Romeo Hilera winemaker and director.