Seems at first like a subtle expression of sauvignon, with initial aromas of lavender and light lemony citrus fruit. But on the palate you discover a deep-set, complex array of citrus and yellow fruit, together with a whole heap of terroir-driven nuances, from wet gray clay to sand and gravel. Full-bodied and super-silky with calm persistence. Long, mineral finish with some phenolic tightening. From biodynamically grown grapes with Demeter certification. Old vines. Drink or hold.

The 2020 Pouilly Fume MCMLV hails from Domaine du Bouchot's oldest plot of vines dating back to 1955 hence the name MCMLV. Bottled just four weeks before I tasted it in June 2022, it had undergone an unusual winemaking process: half of the wine underwent skin contact for several days while the rest was pressed directly into old (8 to 10-year-old) 500-liter barrels. This wine shows lots of thiol-related flavors: tropical fruit, gooseberry as well as a hint of green. It is wine with lots of texture, a sense of roundness and completeness with a sense of satisfying grip that clasps the palate on the finish. There's lovely acidity, but it's nicely balanced. - By Rebecca Gibb MW on July 2022