Maybe the greatest natural white wine I have ever tasted. Complex and strikingly original lemon-zest, smoke and dried-chamomile aromas pour from the glass. Then comes the concentrated but very refined palate,followed by a super-long finish that’s a cascading waterfall of wet-stone minerality. Just doesn’t want to stop! From biodynamically grown grapes with Demeter certification. Drink or hold.

The 2020 Manzoni Bianco Fontanasanta is smoky at first, as a perfumed mix of musky peach skins, incense and ginger blossoms in the glass. This is soft-textured, showing a pleasant inner sweetness and vivid ripe fruits with hints of exotic spice and zesty acidity. The 2020 tapers off with tropical citrus tones and leaves the palate watering for more. The Fontanasanta Manzoni Bianco is firing on all cylinders while flaunting its warm vintage character. -- Eric Guido