Concentrated, taut, Burgundy-like wine with grapefruit, oyster shell, lime blossom and a subtle seasoning of spicy oak supported by a tangy backbone of acidity. It has power, poise and purity. A high-energy chardonnay with a lingering finish.

This has aromas of flint, toast, jasmine, dried pineapples, lemons and sea shells. Some cardamom and salted butter. Classy and driven, with a medium to full body and tight, sleek layers. Perfumed and bright. Everything in balance. Drink or hold. Screw cap.

The 2021 Chardonnay Hunting Hill is its usually sinewy, taut and lightly floral self. Often in the shadow of Mate's Vineyard, Hunting Hill seems to be becoming more and more serious as the vines age - they're around 20 years old. Expect a muscular, unyielding wine that has lemon and lime bitter notes, nectarine and even a whiff of seaside - all salty and briny. By Rebecca Gibb MW on September 2022

The third in a trio of outstanding vintages, and also winemaker Michael Brajkovich MW's 40th vintage, Hunting Hill has similar longevity, having been planted 41 years ago. A lift of white peach, lemon curd and floral notes are dappled with flinty minerality and toast. There's richness to the palate, but the fruit is vibrant, buoyed by crystalline acidity, and gently supported by toasty oak. A class act with at least another decade of cellaring ahead of it. - Christina Pickard

Shows a sleek frame, with fresh pear, lime and Fuji apple flavors leaping out of the glass. Offers wonderful purity and transparency, with a clear thread of minerality, lemon zest and orange blossoms, gaining momentum on the finish. Drink now. — M.W.