If a little less than outgoing yet still showing a nice sense of mildly creamy autolysis and subtle fruitiness in a clean and fairly well- polished frame, the Perrier-Jouët Brut flirts quietly with complexity and smacks of seriousness albeit in a quiet way. Its fine stream of very small bubbles does not let up, and, while perhaps not as crisp as some of its cousins, it is carefully balanced nonetheless and its impressions of both delicacy and stamina are confirmed in a long and lightly yeasty finish.