A minerally Champagne, with smoke and brine notes underscoring crunchy green apple, black raspberry, brioche and marzipan flavors. The bright finish is driven by firm, lemony acidity. Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. Disgorged June 2022. Drink now through 2026. - AN

The latest release of Ployez-Jacquemart's emblematic NV Extra Quality Brut was disgorged with around five grams per liter dosage after three years on the lees. Mingling aromas of orange oil and fresh peach with hints of brioche and smoke, it's medium to full-bodied, fleshy and enveloping, with a tightly wound core, racy acids and a dry, chalky finish. It will show even better after an additional year or two on cork. - William Kelley