For over two decades Hubert Clavelin and his importer have been promoting non-vintage Cremant du Jura Brut-Comte Chardonnay Tete de Cuvee and this latest batch (lot number LBRC05 in tiny print on the back label) - based on the 2005 vintage and having spent 36 months sur lattes - is as fine as any I can recall and a wine that deserves to be taken seriously at the dinner table. A hint of Jura-typical pungency figures amid aromas of buckwheat lime zest and apple cider. With fine mousse and impressive vinosity this coats the palate with zesty piquancy and saline mineral-meaty savor of scallops and bacon. Both fascination and versatility are guaranteed for the coming year.