The latest rendition of De Sousa’s Blanc de Blancs Mycorhize is showing brilliantly, offering up a complex bouquet of citrus oil, lemon curd, freshly baked bread and subtle hints of walnuts and stone fruit. Full-bodied, vinous and textural, it’s broad and concentrated, with a fleshy core of fruit, racy acids and a seamless, complete profile that’s enlivened by a pearly mousse. This is a fabulous effort that’s well worth seeking out. It's based on the 2016 vintage and was disgorged with three grams per liter dosage in April 2019. - William Kelley

Celebrating the symbiosis between the roots and the soil, this biodynamically produced wine is pure Chardonnay from the producer's home village of Avize. It is tensely textured and strongly mineral, showing the effect of the chalk soil on the wine. Acidity and tight citrus suggest this bottling is young. It will be better from 2020. - ROGER VOSS

Based on the 2014 vintage and disgorged in 2018, this has such impressive richness and power with a swathe of grilled almonds, lemon rind and pith, as well as grapefruit and grilled peaches. The palate has toasty and fleshy allure. Really packed with interest. Drink now.